Calibration process


#1

So my monster Wilson 2 build is up to the stage where I need to start running calibration - I have some thoughts on how to approach this:

  1. e-steps (the hotend is currently off, so a good time to do it)
  2. z-offset - there are quite a few guides, which do people reccomend?
  3. Check x,y end stops go to 0,0 on bed
  4. Check the actual printable size so I can set x,y max
  5. anything else???
  6. re-flash my firmware to latest myrice marlin (I have a bastardized version from when I was stuffing around earlier)
  7. calibration print? Which do I start with?

#2

I would check out the guides by tom here:

Best quality 3d printing tutorials you can find Tom’s guides: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnRCAdbFfzECor3EbqF8euw


#3

Im have trouble finding a good point to set the extruder tensioner, it is probably 1/8 of a turn between something that skips/grinds at least 4 or 5 times in a 100mm extrude, and something that does the opposite and slips all the time I’m thinking my springs might be too stiff? Any thing else I might have done wrong?


#4

if it’s skipping/grinding makes sure your

1: the calibration is correct and you are extruding the right amount

2: is extruder temp is correct? I have found very big differences in the temp sensors and I am sure they (as in China) are just sending mislabeled sensors. If you have a temp thermo couple for you multimeter try to see what it really is but remember you are measuring outside on the hotend so it’s only a guide. or just keep turning the temp up till you get stringing on test print.

What extruder? if it’s bowden maybe there is a little too much resistance in the bowden tube. Some people have few inches at the extruder and a few inches at the hotend and cut out the middle length a tube to lower the resistance.


#5
  1. I was trying to calibrate when I hit this problem.

  2. It is a genuine e3d with the supplied thermistor. I have access to a Flir, so I’ll check the actual temp.

It is the stock Wilson 2 extruder.

I am tempted to go Bowden, perhaps even an aluminium one… But there is no point doing it right now if it doesn’t solve this problem.


#6

I tend to do the calibration with the firmware changed so you an run without hotend temp set, so change it to 0 instead of 170deg and with the hotend completely off. and run the test multiple times to make sure you get a good number for extruding the right amount cold. Then try again with the hotend up and running.

I generally start with PLA at a high number like 220deg then keep dropping the temp back till it’s still flowing well at a lower temp. I find different filaments can vary a fair bit. White PLA from Bilby3D I run at 215 and Blue PLA from Hobbyking at 205.

The olnly other thing I can think of is I have had situations where I was running the spring tension so tight I was deforming the filament so much it was tight in the hotend. Since then I run the tension pretty low and only adjust it tighter if it’s necessary.


#7

OK I thought it was skipping, turns out the current to the motor wasn’t high enough and the motor was giving up! A bit of fiddling with the stepper driver and things look much better. Also changed temp to 205 - I was using 185 based on pronterface defaults, thought that was a good start, guess not.

I need to get a mount printed for my 5v step down ASAP, as I had it hanging by wires (I know) and it brushed the aluminium of the tray. It was quite speccy with glowing orange-white wires and heaps of smoke, but no lasting damage. Lesson learned.