E3D V6 Extruder Upgrade?


#1

I’ve been considering upgrading from the Lite6 extruder to the V6 (1.75 Universal) so I can print materials like PETG and nylon, but I had a few questions and was wondering if anyone else had already made the switch?

I also didn’t know if there was a significant change in size from the Lite6 to the V6 that would cause the x-carriage or the extruder drive to need to be redesigned? I’ve included links to the documentation for both, but I was unable to find an assembly drawing for the Lite6, so I couldn’t determine the difference in length between the two hotends. The bottom of each page contains the technical drawings.
https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation
https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-Lite6_Documentation

Finally, I want to make sure that I buy the right kit. I plan to use the electronics in the Lite6 in the V6. Do I need to buy the entire V6 kit or can I get by buying the metal-only hotend? As far as I can tell the metal-only hotend should be fine, but I wasn’t sure if I would need anything else like thermal paste or PTFE tubing.


#2

I only use E3Dv6. I don’t ever use the lite as I think it has the teflon tube still in the hotend limiting the max temp to 240 -250 deg C. All metal V6 hotend is good for 305deg C

All metal is what you need if you are looking at non genuine V6… as in if the add says all metal you should get that.

A tip: non genuine or copy E3D v6 are fine and I do use them but you need to make sure the heatbreak centre is drilled out to 2mm I have found a lot of non genuine less like 1.8mm and they will jam not straight away but as soon as you have a heating problem or filament problem. E3D realised this and increased their hole early on.

If you want to save money but want best as possible… only buy genuine E3Dv6 heatbreak and nozzle. Then buy non genuine hotend block and finned body. You will save about 50% of you money especially if you invest in a few.

If you want to go a step further… if you look on Aliexpress you can buy non genuine E3D Titan Extruders. They are less than half the price and some have free postage so another $30 saving. I have been using one for 2 months non stop and I can’t fault it at all.


#3

I may have not been clear, my intentions were to upgrade from the E3D Lite6 that was sent with the Wilson II to a genuine E3D V6. I was just worried that if the V6 was smaller than the Lite6, I would have to redesign to x-carriage or the extruder drive to prevent the bed probe from hanging below the nozzle.

I also wanted to save some money and buy only the metal parts of the E3D V6 instead of the full kit. I just wanted to make sure that the electronics from the E3D Lite6 would work properly if installed into the E3D V6.


#4

Sorry I wrote that 1am in the morning… If you look at the technical drawings they are exactly the same dimensions.

E3D V6

E3D LITE

If you buy the latest the thermistor has changed to a far better system and there is the new silicone sock.

The heater cartridge is the same so that’s fine.

The thermistor wires now have a plug and all you need to do is either run the new wire to the motherboard or just cut and join the plug to you existing thermistor wires, so you can plug in the new thermistor.

The new thermistor is a 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC which will just need you to run PID Autotuning but saying that it will most likely work with your settings to start with but to get the best you should run autotuning and update that to the firmware.

OLD

NEW


#5

Great Pictures ant0ny.

@npashos, I think you will need the full kit too. If you notice from the pictures, the heat-break is not removable from the lite version.
I got mine from amazon. It is currently priced at $68 US

You will also need to update your firmware in order to print at higher temps. You will find it in the Configuration.h file. #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP
I put mine at 280, but really you could go higher.


#6

Which mount are you using for your titan? I am thinking of heading down the aliexpress titan route


#7

This one… it has the BLTouch mount that takes the melt in inserts but that doesn’t need to be used.

Or there is this one for the Wilson II without the nuts


#8

Cool - after posting I searched thingi, figured you’d probably be using your design :slight_smile:
I am using an inductive probe, so I’ll see what I can find, or see if I can remix yours to hold the probe.


#9

After consulting with E3D, the only things that you need to upgrade are:

  • Heatbrake
  • Heat Sink
  • A few cm of 1.75mm ID bowden tubing

I had the newer E3D Lite6, so the heater cartridge, thermistor, and heater block were all the same. While I originally tried to upgrade my Lite6 to a V6 by buying only those 3 parts, I badly damaged some parts trying to disassemble and reassemble my hotend. While trying to unassemble my LIte6, I deformed the heater block and was also unable to remove the thermistor and the nozzle. While trying to reassemble it into a V6, I bent the new heat brake.

After that disaster, I just decided to spend the money on a new E3D V6. It fits perfectly on the Wilson 2 without any redesign, I just had to recalibrate my z-offset. All in all, you could upgrade a Lite6 to a V6 for a minimal amount of money, but because mine was so tight and had so much residue I ended up braking it in the process and had to buy a new one.