Help drawing 300x300 Y carriage


#1

When I build my Wilson I cut the frame parts so that it would be a 300x300 version. I could not find a 300x300 y carriage and heat plate at the time so I used a 300x200. Now i want to upgrade to a aluminum flat Tooling plate heat surface prob around 6mm thick. I will also need a 3 or 4mm thick y carriage cut out of normal aluminum plate.

I now need Help to do the drawing for the y carriage, I have the normal drawing for the Prusa 219x219 version and added in the new dimensions that I want to use (319x319mm). I am using the SCS10UU bearing blocks on current build and would also like to use them on the new y carriage. The prusa style uses the 8mm bearing blocks.

I have attached the sketch of the y carriage and the dimension of SCS10uu blocks if somebody is able to help me with drawing the new y carriage so I can take it to the metal supply place and ask them to water-jet it for me. The center holes for the belt block are fine to be included as I am using the same part which is the 41mm spaced holes.

Thank you in advance



#2

You are going to have a seriously heavy setup which you will find hard to push to any real speed. All the 300x300 printers I build I use a 300x300 PCB heated bed on a 4mm Ali bed plate with holes to lighten with a 3mm Borosilicate Plate glass. this is about the most efficient bed you can have for the size.

This is a bit out of date now I do my Y axis different on the Lulzbots now.

If you look through the Lulzbot you will see some latter iterations but I have refined this even more.

If you place your belt holes 10mm apart you can do a 300 bed on a 500mm y axis rails… look at some of the pics in the Lulzbot pic you might see what I mean.

Where in the world are you? If you are in Oz I might be able to help.


#3

I am in South Africa :frowning:

The reason I am wanting to go the tooling plate option is I only print with ABS so i need the bed to hold high temps. My current setup is 3mm y carriage and a 3mm solid heatplate both 219x319mm and a pcb heater. Getting up to temp is a problem. When I started and built the 300x300 frame I already got a 220v 750w silcone heat mat that was always the plan to use. My heatplate is covered in a PEI sheet with works great for holding the ABS but just needs a bit more heat so i print try at 110c.

The problems I have and the reason for the changes. The heatplate is not flat and am only able to print on certain areas because of this. If I print large prints most of the time the print will lift during the print in the areas I know are lower. I have tried using Glass to print on but the ABS does not like to stick even with the glue.

If I can get the 319x319mm tooling plate working I will have a flat surface to hold the heat and the PEI on top of it I know will help stick the ABS. Weight has always been my concern but if it becomes a major problem I will then use the tooling plate on a a D-Bot build (next project) and try a lighter option on the wilson 300.


#4

The getting to temp is a power issue and even if your PCB is away from the plate in spots generally it will still work. I would up the power supply and use a 600 to 800 W PC power supply if it’s a 12v system. Use a SSR 100amp DC to DC I say 100amp because a lot are fakes… if you can get a genuine then 30plus amp is good. Use the SSR to feed power to the bed and not you Controller board.

If you used glass then it’s not flat. Glass either general or mirror or tempered is not flat and will react to temp and warp to a degree. Borosilicate Glass is inert to temp up to something like 400deg thus it is used for scientific equipment and it is flat.

You have to remember all metals move with heat. PCB board generally doesn’t move with heat. So PCB with Boro Glass Plate is the best chance you have. If you have to camp a glass bed to a metal plate… Boro or not… the metal plate moves pushing the glass. Certain metal and alloys move less but come at a price both in weight and cost.

With the PCB board the side with the visible wire traces is the side that has to be up… I see from factory some with the wires down this is just giving away heat. Look on ebay for Cork with the 3M high temp tape applied and cover the bottom it makes a massive difference.

If you want to go the tooling place i would consider just building Dbot outright and fixing the current one to build it.

For ABS try printing on a raft (if yo havn’t already) if you use S3D slicer there are good tweaking settings like how many layers for the raft and the speed of the first layer as well as density of the top raft layer. You can get reasonably quick ( for a raft setup) and good results from rafts.

I print ABS… well I hardly ever now days I use PETG far better and easier to print with and same strength or better… on Boro glass with glue stick. The only glue stick that works is Elmer’s Disappearing Purple Glue Stick. How I got onto Elmers is a company I support who have a few of my printers print direct on Boro glass (with no raft) using the elmers glue and they print thousands of cookie cutters a month.