I designed a new rendition of RAMPS called PICA


#23

Yes, you would just cut the jumper P17 and then populate the LM2596 and support circuitry around it (inductor, diode, and feedback resistors).


#24

I got the PICA board to connect via Bluetooth. Unfortunately my Hc06 is still set to baud 9600 I just have to get a ftdi chip and reprogram the module and it should be great.


#25

You can use your arduino/pica to change the HC06 settings. I can’t find the tutorial I’ve used before, but it was as simple as writting a couple of SerialOut() with the AT commands you want.

You do lose your current Marlin setup, but if you’re anything like me you may have more than one arduino lying arround :stuck_out_tongue:


#26

Here is the tutorial I was using.

I bought a FTDI chip local for $5 so ill just wait as I’m still building the printer.


#27

Having both arduinos and ftdi board, I gota admit it’s quite easier with the ftdi board.

Nice tutorial, I did the same to my printer. I do have some issue with mine tho. While the HC-06 is connected to my printer, the LCD flicker as the bluetooth module get hotter inside the enclosure. I have yet to find the source of the issue, but I don’t get this weird flickering when it’s unplugged.


#28

Is there are BOM available, I looked at github and the KiCad files but could not find anything comprehensive apart from guessing component parts from the data sheets in the github repo and the assembly guide (which is great btw). Thanks


#29

@SamBerry I will work on a more formal one, but the list of parts that comes with the unassembled kit (http://reprapwilson3d.com/products/pica-unassembled-kit-12v) is about it, just not very specific I guess as far as part numbers.


#30

@mjrice, I use a PT100 for my extruder temp, which requires a 5V power source and an analog signal pin (3 pins total). Normally on RAMPS I’d connect this to Aux 2 and map the pins; what do you recommend as the best way to connect this to the PICA? I’d rather not split the wiring across the board. Thanks!


#31

@jsmith the easiest I think will be to wire your sensor to two separate 2-pin connectors (Y-connector style) and hook the analog to a thermistor input and the power to P5 (the two pins closes to the corner are 5V and ground). Each connector would have a ground connection in that case.


#32

Marty do mind posting your Simplify3D settings. Particularly your Scripts and any other setting of interest which might be tailored for the Wilson II and or PICA board.

Second Question… your Fully assembled thermistor with cable, do you make them yourself? My Hotend thermister cable is about 150mm too short. If you could do a Hotend setup with 2-pin berg connector I’d get a few. If not all good.


#33

My version of Marlin is asking for the definition of E1_STEP_PIN. What pin is it?


#34

Is this board able to be used with one of the ARM variants of the arduino?


#35

@zzing I am not entirely sure. The logic levels on the Due are only 3V compatible, so I don’t know if it will control devices like the stepper motor drivers or fets on the pica board properly. Sorry I don’t have a more definitive answer for you.


#36

@mjrice I am going to do the same thing as @jsmith hook up the E3D PT100 amplifier board to the Pica. (schematic is here: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation)

Am I correct to assume that the 4.7k resistor and 0.1uf capacitor on the thermistor inputs will only function as a low pass filter in this case?